Ray Riches*

Don’t you hate the weather sometimes? In HCM City, the weather is almost an infamous part of the city’s reputation. “Hot and wet” are the first words that come to mind when speaking about this southern Vietnamese metropolis, but HCM City is so much more than just one season.

The easiest way to explain the weather is that southern Việt Nam has two basic seasons. From May/June through to November each year is called the wet season. And while trends do vary slightly from year to year, most locals can predict rain down to the minute such is the regularity of the downpours during this time.

This is not to say the rain is monotonous, but southern Việt Nam has a pattern of afternoon downpours that rapidly flood city streets. Then, as fast as it arrives, it is gone, leaving behind wet riders and traffic chaos.

While those outside the city may see this as an imposition on their daily lives, many welcome the daily downpour. The relief from the heat often lasts well into the evening, allowing people to sleep better and enjoy the outdoors after dark in a more comfortable atmosphere.

One of the things I learned as a resident of HCM City is that you always carry a spare set of clothes in your bag. They do not need to be anything fancy. I carry a simple T-shirt, shorts and one pair of socks. This way, I can continue with my job in some form if I happen to get caught in the rain.

Being caught in the rain brings out the use of the poncho-style raincoat. While they are the go-to in Việt Nam, there is a major design flaw that motivates many to carry spare clothes. The covering is not fixed and water often leaks into the area around your trouser pockets. Once your trousers are wet, it becomes very uncomfortable.

Alternatively, the trousers-and-jacket-style raincoat has its own issues. Apart from the price, it takes a long time to put on and when you are hit with a storm on the street, you might have only 15 seconds to get covered before you are soaked by the deluge.

Trousers-and-jacket-style raincoats are perfect for long rides, but they also get very hot at low speeds. For this reason, they are not the preferred choice for commuters in southern Vietnamese cities.

The best way to manage your relationship with the weather is to know when it is coming, be prepared to get wet and have backup clothes ready for after the storm passes.

Now that November has arrived, we are in the final days of the stormy weather. From around mid-November to the end of May is the dry season. This period coincides with winter and is considered the most enjoyable time of year. However, the lack of rain can make the heat of the day more intense.

Springtime comes around after the Tết celebrations, bringing the hottest time of the year in the South. Mostly in April, both days and nights wash over the region with a blast of constant heat, sometimes reaching highs of around 36 degrees.

On the positive side, the night weather in December and January is simply amazing. Mild evenings are perfect for street food or just walking around with your family. Minimum temperatures drop to the low 20s and nightlife in HCM City becomes an absolute joy.

One special experience for an expat like myself is the week from Christmas to the Western New Year. This is the one week of the year when night temperatures may fall below 20 degrees. The lowest I have seen is a mild 18 degrees, but being the coldest time of the year, the streets light up with young families wearing attire more suited for the mountainous regions of Đà Lạt or Sa Pa.

The local community embraces the dry weather, the spectacles of Christmas and the cool nights to enjoy a rare experience of feeling cold in one of the hottest cities in the world. It might bring some wonder to one’s mind, but it truly is special to see and experience.

I love this time of year. I love seeing families out enjoying the magic of the winter season in HCM City. I love seeing the streets full of inquisitive young eyes peering out from woolly hats, gazing at the crisp array of lights and the atmosphere that is HCM City in winter.

If you are in the South and thinking, “I have had enough of this rain,” you are not alone. But hold on, because you have made it through the wet season and the start of the dry season is only days away. Then the true magic of HCM City and the entire southern region of Việt Nam explodes, revealing something I keep in my heart as the true spirit of Việt Nam.

* Ray Riches lives in HCM City and works as a teacher and freelancer. Apart from teaching, he is a keen runner and bicycle adventure rider. After ten years in Việt Nam, Ray has a love and passion for the smaller things and enjoys sharing his experiences with people all over the world.