By AF Reeves – @afreeves23

To those in the know, Tô Ngọc Vân in the West Lake area of Hà Nội is a street on which you can find many things to eat. From a proper Italian deli and a French bistro to a German-style kneipe and Michelin-renowned Vietnamese fare, variety is abundant.

Halfway down this culinary treasure trove sits somewhere a little out of the ordinary, even for here. A red-tiled open courtyard, etched pillars and stylised murals are far from what I’ve come to associate with the average Vietnamese restaurant, modern or otherwise.

The curved wood, dim orange lighting and centred table drapes drag me further west, but the vibrant colours and geometric patterns throw me off. The vibe is calm; people drink wine while unfamiliar music plays in the background. This isn’t the Mediterranean, in fact we haven’t even left the continent. It’s a little slice of Armenia. This is Armo-House, Hà Nội’s first, and to the best of my knowledge, only Armenian restaurant.

I’d be lying if I said I knew what an Armenian restaurant should look like. Beyond a few broad geo-culinary strokes, I couldn’t truthfully claim I knew what an Armenian meal would look like either, until a few days ago. The truth is that Robert and Lucy have remodelled this Romanesque spot with details that bring an East-meets-West feel to the space, the sort many of us have only seen in travel brochures and films.

Something that I very much do recognise however, is the smell of well-seasoned meat grilling somewhere in the background. Apologies to my vegetarian readers, who almost certainly don’t exist, but there’s something safe and deeply reassuring about approaching a new cuisine and being greeted by the familiar mix of herbs and char as different cuts meet the flame. The savoury scent of rendered fat pulling you in by the nose.

Patience, they say, is a virtue. Meals, they say, are best shared, especially from this part of the world. With that in mind, it was a waiting game that worked out well. A late arrival from dining partners led us all too quickly to another specialty of South Caucasus cooking: bread. Not a simple aside, bread is a core element of Armenian food, the fabric that both figuratively and literally holds dishes together. And with it, a colourful array of options presented to smother or to threaten it with.

The choice to dunk, dip or lightly smear isn’t easy, owing to the quality of Armenian-style bakes. Matnakash is thicker, ridged and doughier, to be pulled and torn at, whereas lavash is thin, understated and utilitarian. Both arrive in a basket with light tzatziki, dense hummus, smoky kessab and, ultimately, adjika, my deep-red pick of the dips. To what extent you flavour the bread or the condiment is personal; there are no wrong answers here.

 Fresh and indulgent

Once our companions arrived, we wasted no time getting stuck into a broad menu, some dishes familiar, others completely new. It seemed silly to skip Armenian-style dumplings: soft, smaller than usual, with an almost tortellini-like texture. A light spoon of sour cream on top cut nicely through the mixed beef-and-pork filling of each little pocket, passed round the table and enjoyed by all.

Next, dolma, a generous mixture of ground beef and rice rolled in Armenian grape leaves. The leaves add a faintly herbal, tannic note. Popular across our party, while these were a first for me, my dining compatriots had seen similar takes in other cuisines. This is not surprising. Landlocked, Armenia naturally has many neighbours, brothers and sisters of former more empirical times and the tastes of trade routes and shared histories are well established in many of these dishes.

Where Greek food signals olive oil, lemon, oregano and seafood, and Turkish plates lean lamb-heavy and peppery, you can witness the heritage with Armenia from the Med to Persia, dried fruits used in flavour as much as decoration. Themes and cultures overlap and diverge across each dish. Armenia, the first nation to adopt Christianity as a state religion, gives prominence to pork, setting it apart from Islamic mezze-style cuisines these recipes might otherwise evoke.

Egg, bread, meat and cheese are sure-fire ways to keep almost anyone fed and happy. From the beef-laden flatbread of lahmajun to the eggy, cheesy bread-boat of adjarian khachapuri, we were just that. The lahmajun is nicely spiced and easily torn at; the khachapuri is a must-not-miss as a runny egg yolk is mixed tableside with three melted cheeses. All were washed down with the eternally refreshing ‘compote’, a mixed-fruit concoction of which numerous jugs were consumed. New and indulgent flavours that I’ll return for.

Robert and Lucy are far from pushy hosts. They’re warm, welcoming and present, on hand to guide you but ultimately allowing your cravings to decide which direction the menu takes you, with one exception: a gentle nudge towards the barbecue. And it is advice you would be silly to ignore. The meat is cooked to perfection, from kebab-style sausages to thighs, wings and ribs. It isn’t excessively spiced by design; with Robert wanting the quality of the meat to show through, and it does.

I returned the following day for the prospect of house cocktails for sunset on the balcony, built on the national spirit, an Armenian brandy by the name of Ararat. The dried-fruit, nutty, spicy notes from distillation are there; it’s distinct. After a second visit’s feed, I’d lean towards ordering the barbecue on mixed plates, chicken and pork separately rather than sets. It’s a personal preference, but knowing exactly what cut was where helped me enjoy each bite that little bit more.

Before signing off, a note on the name. It’s deliberate, this is a family affair, and they want it to feel not only like a house but a home. After nearly a decade in China, the couple moved here to share their nation’s cuisine and hospitality, with Lucy’s mum even migrating from Yerevan as head chef. It’s her handiwork, with recipes handed down through generations, which serve to provide such authentic flavours. So, if you’re after something new and unexpected, make yourself comfortable at Armo-House. They’ll be happy to have you. – VNS

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Armo-House - Armenian Cuisine

Address: 48 Tô Ngọc Vân Street, Quảng An Ward, Tây Hồ, Hà Nội

Tel: 0368 810 022

Price: VNĐ3 million or US$115 (for six people, multiple dishes, BBQ & drinks)

Dining companions: Date night, family and friends, fellow foodies

Top tip: The cheese balls went unmentioned but they shouldn’t go unordered.