CAO BẰNG — Quiet and relatively untouched by tourism services, the Ba Quáng Grass Hills in Cao Bằng Province have become an increasingly attractive destination for travellers seeking raw, unspoiled natural beauty.

With vast open landscapes, shifting seasonal colours and peaceful atmosphere, the area is ideal for experiential travel, camping and immersing oneself in nature.

Also known as Vinh Quý Grass Hills, Ba Quáng is located in Vinh Quý Commune, about 70km from Cao Bằng City and 300km from Hà Nội.

The journey is not particularly easy, especially for first-time visitors to Việt Nam’s mountainous northern regions. Winding roads, steep passes and limited infrastructure can make the trip challenging.

However, for those drawn to adventure and authenticity, Ba Quáng offers a rewarding escape far from crowded tourist destinations.

A changing landscape

Ba Quáng is defined by its wide, gently sloping hills that stretch toward the horizon, largely untouched by development. This openness gives the area a raw, natural beauty that feels both simple and vast.

The landscape transforms dramatically with the seasons. During the rainy months, the hills are covered in lush green grass that sways in the wind like waves across an endless sea.

In the dry season, the grass turns yellowish-brown, creating a prairie-like scene that contrasts beautifully with the surrounding mountains.

This constant shift between green vitality and golden stillness gives Ba Quáng its unique identity, enhanced by the quiet, borderland atmosphere.

The most beautiful moments at Ba Quáng are early in the morning and late in the afternoon. Soft, angled sunlight highlights the curves of the hills, creating depth and making the landscape especially photogenic. These times are ideal for walking, photography, filming or simply enjoying the silence of nature.

According to local photographer Thế Kiệt, visitors can park at the base of the hill and walk around 700m to the top. While the distance is short, the trail can be steep and requires some effort. Along the way, travellers can enjoy sweeping views of rice fields, scattered villages and layered mountain ranges, offering a glimpse into daily life in the highlands.

 

Cloud hunting

From May to October, Ba Quáng is at its most vibrant. The hills are covered in thick green grass that stretches endlessly across the landscape. The wind moves through the grass in soft waves, creating a sense of gentle motion across the hills.

This is also the peak season for cloud hunting, one of the most popular activities here. Many visitors begin their journey before dawn, hiking through mist-covered trails toward the summit.

As the sun rises behind distant mountains, a sea of clouds often forms below, glowing in soft golden light. The combination of mist, sunlight and rolling hills creates a breathtaking and almost surreal atmosphere.

From the top, the view is completely open in all directions. Visitors can see hidden villages, terraced rice fields cascading down slopes and layers of green mountains embracing the grasslands below. The harmony of light, sky and landscape makes Ba Quáng especially attractive to photographers and young travellers seeking striking images.

Visitor Bùi Thị Hoài said that cloud formations usually appear between 4.30 and 6am, especially after rainy nights. She adds that if it rains the night before, the chances of seeing clouds the next morning are higher.

During this season, the weather is generally sunny during the day, although occasional showers still occur, conditions that help create the misty landscapes visitors come for.

Although still relatively undeveloped, Ba Quáng offers basic facilities for visitors. A small wooden house on the hill provides a resting place with simple food, drinks and coffee. A few tents are also available for overnight stays, allowing travellers to experience sunrise above the clouds without rushing.

 

Golden season

By November, Ba Quáng undergoes another striking transformation. The green grass gradually turns golden-yellow, marking the beginning of what locals call the 'burnt grass season'.

Cold winds sweep across the hills, accelerating the colour change and covering the landscape in shimmering gold. In the early morning, mist drifts over the hills before slowly lifting, revealing grass that glows under sunlight like flowing silk.

This season typically lasts from October to January. When temperatures drop below 15°C, the golden tones become deeper and more vivid. Winter temperatures in Ba Quáng usually range between 8°C and 15°C, with dry air and rapidly changing weather conditions. Visitors are advised to travel on clear, sunny days for the best views and safer conditions.

During these months, many travellers describe Ba Quáng as a 'miniature Mongolia', due to its vast open grasslands and rolling terrain that evoke a sense of freedom and wilderness.

In 2023, the Ba Quáng Grass Hills Festival was held for the first time, attracting a large number of visitors and marking an important milestone in local tourism development. Since then, Ba Quáng has become more widely recognised as a highlight along eastern Cao Bằng’s travel routes.

It is now part of the 'Experience Indigenous Culture in a Fairytale Land' journey within the UNESCO Non Nước Cao Bằng Global Geopark, helping to position it on Việt Nam’s ecotourism map. — VNS

 

Travel information

Getting there: From Hà Nội, visitors can travel to Cao Bằng by car or motorbike in about seven hours, covering roughly 300km. From Cao Bằng City, continue to Vinh Quý Commune and follow local directions to Ba Quáng Grass Hills.

Accommodation: Due to limited tourism development, there are few formal accommodation options. However, this makes Ba Quáng ideal for camping. Basic facilities on-site allow visitors to rest, eat and stay overnight in tents.

Food: Local cuisine is simple but flavourful, reflecting the highland lifestyle. Visitors can bring their own food for camping or enjoy dishes prepared by local families, such as grilled meat, bamboo rice and wild vegetables.