Thanh Hà

HÀ NỘI — There must be a reason that bánh hỏi has made national headlines twice recently.

The craft of making square-shaped rice vermicelli has been recognised as a national heritage, while a photo of an artisan making bánh hỏi by photographer Đặng Hoài Anh won the Champagne Taittinger Food for Celebration at the World Food Photography Awards 2025.

These two reasons have also motivated me to research and test the delicacies of the central region, which I have heard about for a long time.

Việt Nam is associated with rice cultivation and agricultural development, so its cuisine emphasises natural elements, wholesome food and ingredients made from rice, which have become an important part of people's lives. 

For many generations, noodles and vermicelli and the abundance of rice flour have created countless delicious dishes. Among these, bánh hỏi is fascinating for the traditional way it's made and how perfectly it combines with many different types of toppings.

Three generations of Lê Văn Chương's family in the former Bình Thuận Province, now Lâm Đồng, have been producing bánh hỏi for over half a century. They make up to 250kg of noodles every day.  

Chương's workshop has become a destination for photographers in the locality. He was also captured in an award-winning photo that catches a vivid moment in a traditional Vietnamese kitchen.

He said bánh hỏi is made from pure rice, without additional elements. For delicious noodles, the rice must be selected carefully, washed and soaked overnight. Then it is finely ground with water into a mixture, which is steamed and kneaded, and then stirred continuously until it becomes a smooth and elastic dough.  

The dough is pressed through a mould into noodle form, which is then laid onto a flat surface. After being shaped into square sheets, the noodles are steamed for a second time to maintain their softness. They are then arranged on banana leaves atop a bamboo tray. 

Trần Thiện Cảnh in Cần Thơ City has also become famous for his family's tradition of making rice vermicelli for decades. 

 

He said: "My family has been making rice vermicelli for more than 50 years. However, in the past, the rice noodles were mainly made for the family to eat or to give to neighbours when there were parties, and not for sale.

"Around 1990, seeing the great demand of people in the area, my family started making rice vermicelli for processing, and then made it for sale."

There are many documents surrounding the true origin of bánh hỏi. According to some sources, it originated from Bình Định, now Gia Lai Province. Currently, however, it is famous in many localities, such as Đắk Lắk and Khánh Hòa, and is rapidly spreading to the whole southwestern region.

Bánh hỏi can serve every class of people. It is used in daily meals as well as family parties and special occasions, such as holidays and festival celebrations, engagements and weddings. 

People often eat bánh hỏi with chopped garlic chives and oil, or dipped in sweet and sour fish sauce or spicy garlic and chilli to enhance the flavour. 

More well-off families often eat bánh hỏi with meat and herbs. Tamarind sauce is also a great option for dipping.

Best dishes

"What is the best topping for bánh hỏi?" is a question that I asked many friends.

The suggestions are various, as my friends said it depends on the destinations I visited.

In Cần Thơ, Cảnh serves his customers bánh hỏi with herbs and grilled pork dipped in sweet and sour chilli fish sauce, which earned him a gold medal from a traditional cuisine festival in 2016.

In the former Sóc Trăng Province, which is now part of Cần Thơ, the vermicelli squares are often enjoyed with grilled shrimp and local raw herbs dipped in fermented anchovy sauce.

In Lâm Đồng, many people voted for pork offal, while in HCM City, diners said they enjoy the rice vermicelli with grilled beef on bamboo skewers or fatty roasted pork with scallion oil, dipped in fish sauce.

Many other variations can be mentioned: roasted duck, grilled pork, chicken sausage, boiled pork, spring rolls and pork paste.

I myself prefer bánh hỏi with crispy pork belly and organs.

The delicate noodles, fresh herbs and optional vegetables like carrots and cucumber, as well as slices of meat, can also be placed in a sheet of rice paper. Roll the ingredients tightly to form a neat cylinder. Finally, serve this dish with dipping sauce for a burst of flavour. 

Wraps and rolls don't work with bánh hỏi and boiled organs. Served this way, the vermicelli squares are best placed separately on a plate with garlic chives with oil on top.

This is then served with herbs and slices of sour star fruit, unripe banana, green mango and a bowl of pure fish sauce with chopped garlic and hot chillies. This dish is suitable for breakfast! VNS