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Chasing clouds on the roof of Cúc Phương


A six-kilometre trek through Việt Nam’s oldest national park leads adventure seekers deep into primeval jungle and up to Mây Bạc Peak – a misty summit locals call the 'roof' of Cúc Phương.
Foreign visitors celebrate reaching the summit of Mây Bạc Peak, the highest point in Cúc Phương National Park. — Photos courtesy of the Cúc Phương National Park

NINH BÌNH — At 8am, the gates of Cúc Phương National Park open to a different kind of traveller: those who are ready to trade paved paths for muddy trails, silence for birdsong and comfort for the thrill of pushing their limits.

The park has just launched a cross-forest trekking tour that takes visitors six kilometres into the heart of its primary rainforest, culminating at Mây Bạc Peak, 648 metres above sea level. It is the highest point in Cúc Phương and one of the most atmospheric viewpoints in northern Việt Nam.

The adventure begins at the Visitor Centre, where guides introduce the park’s biodiversity and conservation efforts. From there, travellers are driven around 20 kilometres to the Bống Centre – the real gateway to the wild. Phones lose signal, the canopy thickens overhead and the sounds of civilisation fade behind the dense green walls of the jungle.

The trail wastes no time testing stamina. It snakes through buttress-rooted giants, bamboo groves and carpets of ferns slick with morning dew. Guides stop frequently, pointing out medicinal plants, towering ancient trees and traces of wildlife that most people would miss at first glance.

“Cúc Phương is home to an incredible range of flora and fauna,” a park representative says. “Walking through the forest allows visitors to truly feel how rich and fragile this ecosystem is.”

For travellers who love cloud hunting and untouched rainforest, Mây Bạc is an irresistible destination.

As the path climbs, the air cools. The light dims under layers of leaves, then suddenly brightens again when the forest opens onto rocky ridges. After hours of steady ascent, the final push brings trekkers out onto the summit of Mây Bạc.

Here, the forest stretches endlessly in every direction, a sea of emerald ridges dissolving into white clouds. On good days, mist drifts slowly across the canopy, wrapping the mountaintop in a dreamlike hush. It is easy to understand why hikers describe reaching the peak as both exhausting and euphoric.

At 648 metres, guides gather the group for a short talk about the area’s terrain and vegetation, sharing stories of how ancient trees adapt to life at higher altitudes and how wildlife survives in this unique environment. Cameras click, boots are kicked off and travellers linger, reluctant to leave what feels like the sky’s own balcony.

Untamed jungle scenery lines the rugged trail leading to the 'roof' of Cúc Phương.

Lunch is a simple picnic enjoyed right in the forest – energy bars, fruit and light dishes that taste unexpectedly good after hours of walking. It is a moment to rest sore legs, breathe deeply and let the jungle reclaim your senses.

The return journey retraces the same trail, but the park’s message remains forward-looking. Visitors are reminded to carry out all rubbish, avoid disturbing wildlife and leave no trace behind, so that Cúc Phương’s ancient beauty can endure for generations to come.

Those planning to tackle Mây Bạc Peak are advised to come prepared: sturdy trekking shoes or boots, a headlamp, a hat, insect repellent and enough water. Binoculars and cameras are also highly recommended for capturing sweeping forest views – and a decent level of fitness is essential if you want the adventure to be as rewarding as it is challenging. — VNS

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