HÀ NỘI — Well-known Vietnamese fashion designer Phan Đăng Hoàng will be presenting his latest collection at Milan Fashion Week 2026 in Milan, Italy on September 28. 

His collection 'Lacquer' was inspired by the 20th-century master lacquer artist Nguyễn Gia Trí, who was a graduate of L'Ecole Superieure des Beaux-Arts de l'Indochine. It includes 30 designs created from basic forms and complex techniques, which Hoàng said are centred around ideas that are "both still and dynamic, with depth in simplicity."

Like the traditional sơn mài (lacquer) painting technique, Hoàng treats his fabric and uses it in layers, making the designs shine with light and hidden depth. 

"Difference is something we are always encouraged to embrace, like in master Trí's avant-garde art," said Hoàng at a recent press conference.

"This collection is a story of patriotism as told by art creators. I want international friends to understand more about the culture, landscape and people of Việt Nam when they see the details of the designs."

The collection is made almost entirely out of Vietnamese silk, such as Lãnh Mỹ A. This material is made of natural silk fabric processed with a unique method: it is woven and dyed with the mặc nưa fruit. 

Hoàng also uses the main colours of lacquer art – black, red and gold – in the collection. 

Trí (1908-1993) was a leader in creating a new style of traditional lacquer art. He helped bring Vietnamese lacquer art to new heights with a combination of local culture, traditional artistic styles and western academic painting techniques.

His paintings Vườn Xuân Trung Nam Bắc (Spring Gardens of the North, Central and South) and the eight-panel Bình Phong (Standing Screen) are now national treasures.

"Whenever I see Nguyễn Gia Trí's paintings, I am moved, because they have very typical Vietnamese characteristics," said Hoàng.

"I feel empathy with artist Trí, because both of us put our feelings and thoughts into our works, the painting and the design."

The designer said he aspires to integrate the Vietnamese spirit into his work, and include it in a modern and delicate manner.

Hoàng graduated from La Nuova Accademia di Belle Arti in Milan in 2022. After returning to Việt Nam, he launched his eponymous label, which was later showcased at Milan Fashion Week 2025.

Blending Asian and western influences, his designs have featured in publications such as Vogue Italia and L’Officiel Vietnam. In 2024, he was named one of Forbes Asia’s 30 Under 30.

Hoàng is the first Vietnamese designer to have a showcase at Milan Fashion Week. His collection 'Ceramics' was inspired by Nguyễn Phan Chánh's silk paintings and traditional ceramic art. It was modern and creative interpretation of Vietnamese women from a century ago.

He has previously held two digital shows at the fashion week event. — VNS