Nguyễn Mỹ Hà

The weather has cooled down, and we are heading into the best time of year in the north in the months leading up to the Tết (Lunar New Year) holiday.

When it's not so hot and humid, people start to become more open to travelling and exploring new things. Within about an hour's drive from central Hà Nội, there are many small retreats where you don't have to travel for too long, but still get to relax in the countryside with a level of comfort that won't stretch your budget too much.

We chose Mật Retreat for its proximity, landscape and comfortable bungalows lying by a small lake. Within an hour from Go! Thăng Long supermarket in the southwest of Hà Nội, we took Thăng Long Highway towards Nội Bài International Airport and arrived in Yên Bài Commune in Ba Vì.

In Vietnamese, the word "mật" means "honey", and can also mean "secret". Call it either way, and you get a sense of what we set out to find. Check-in time was after midday, so we spent some time walking around the retreat, which has about a dozen bungalows scattered around the lake, several small villas and a big house on stilts that has been refurbished with modern amenities.

All the rooms have a rocking chair and cushions made from ethnic handloom fabric. The biggest rooms are in the stilt house, which has four king-sized beds on the ground and first floors. If you go in a big group, this house can be a great option.

The reception area has the best view at the retreat, as it overlooks the valley and has a nice little pool to cool off in. The rocking chairs seem to be a signature feature, so you'll find two here where you can doze off if it's not too sunny. 

We ordered lunch well before our trip to give the kitchen staff time to get fresh ingredients at a local market early in the morning and prepare our meal beforehand.

Mật Kitchen has a long list of local delicacies, from hill chickens, Gâm River catfish and free-range pigs to spring fish, buffalo meat and beef. The portions are all quite big, and there were only two of us, so it was impossible to order many of these dishes because we wouldn't finish them. 

It was a good time of year for harvesting bamboo shoots, so we had bamboo shoots stir-fried with garlic and herbs (VNĐ80,000) and boiled vegetables with a boiled-egg and soy sauce dip (VNĐ90,000).

The good thing about eating in the mountains is that the vegetables are very young and fresh and taste delicious. Perhaps they would taste the same if we cooked them at home, but the fresh scenery and relaxed mood make us feel better regardless.

We ordered Gâm River catfish hot pot cooked with green banana and tofu (VNĐ 350,000) for the main course. It's an all-in-one pot as it has both fish and pork belly, banana and tofu in a thick, sour broth that tastes great with either fresh rice noodles or white rice.

There are other fish dishes on the menu, including fish salad or salt-roasted fish (VNĐ350,000 each), grilled fish rolls with vegetables (VNĐ690,000), stir-fried fish with fragrant mushrooms (VNĐ350,000), or steamed fish in soy sauce (VNĐ690,000). 

For dessert, we had fresh pineapple, which made a refreshing end to the meal.

As soon as we finished our early lunch, a bigger group of about 20 people arrived at the restaurant. They were college classmates having a reunion many years after graduation. They were so happy to relive their younger days, that they could not contain their feelings, and their joy was contagious.

A lazy afternoon went by very quickly and our dinner arrived as ordered. We had stir-fried Mường pork with lemongrass and ginger (VNĐ230,000). The pork pieces were well marinated, with the skin on, and needed a good chew as they weren't really tender, but the flavour was delicious.

Other dishes in the same price range were available, such as charcoal-grilled pork, pork steamed with lemongrass and ginger, pork stewed with fermented rice and, best of all, a full assorted offal tray. The last two dishes must be ordered in advance.

We also had mustard greens and clam soup, which was really well cooked. Dinner finished early, before the big group's gala dinner even started, as we felt we would overhear their conversations and start to miss our own school friends.

Breakfast the next morning was included in the room rate, and was similar to what you might expect at a three-star hotel. Here, you'll get hot phở, rice porridge and eggs cooked any style to order. Local staples such as maize, sweet potatoes and manioc are also readily available. Instant coffee was included, but if you want a latte or cappuccino, it costs extra.

After two days and a night of rest, we were recharged and re-energised for the weeks ahead. — VNS

Mật Retreat Ba Vì

Address: 2CGF+XJ, Chóng Hamlet, Lane 103 Road 1, Yên Bài Commune, Hà Nội 100000

Tel: 0888 398 268

Comment: Weekend get away to recharge