Thanh Hà

My trip to the mountainous province of Sơn La turned from a letdown into an absolute delight after this food lover discovered an incredible dining spot serving authentic regional specialities.

Wandering through the central wards, I asked about local attractions, only to discover that the area lacked entertainment complexes, parks or zoos. It was a surprising discovery, as it was the first destination I had ever visited with such a noticeable absence of recreational options.

Fortunately, the delicious local food spared Sơn La from receiving a negative score from me.

My team and I were invited to Nguyên Xoa Beer Garden, a family-run establishment tucked away in a small alley that we would never have found without our local friend showing us the way.

When we arrived, most of the dishes were already on the table, as our friend had booked a table and placed an order in advance.

I was particularly excited to see nộm da trâu (buffalo skin salad) on the table. It was one of the dishes that had made me most curious after watching numerous video clips introducing the cuisine of the Northwest region.

Through an impressive culinary technique, the chef transforms buffalo skin, which is naturally very dark, thick and tough, into a delightful speciality.

Once thoroughly prepared, the buffalo skin turns pale yellow and is mixed with fermented bamboo shoot liquid, mắc khén (local wild pepper), garlic, chilli, roasted peanuts and various fresh herbs, before being left to marinate and served.

The salad's satisfying crunch and delicate sweet-and-sour flavour made it well worth trying. I was told that it was one of the restaurant's most popular dishes among both local residents and visitors, who could not stop eating until the last bite.

The second dish that caught my eye was a plate of bamboo worms. I felt a little apprehensive at the thought of putting such a disgusting-looking thing in my mouth. However, our friend assured us that local people had eaten these worms for generations without a single incident being reported. In fact, they are both highly nutritious and delicious.

The stir-fried bamboo worms with lime leaves were the most delicious and sought-after dish, with the worms deep-fried until golden brown and then tossed with thinly sliced lime leaves. Their rich, fatty flavour blended perfectly with the fragrant aroma of the lime leaves.

 

Worms can be deep-fried, stir-fried, grilled, steamed or cooked with sour bamboo shoots, and all these preparations make perfect snacks to accompany a cold beer or local corn liquor.

After that initial taste, I couldn't resist a second helping, then a third, before eventually losing count altogether. They were truly exceptional.

My recommendation is that, since bamboo worms are rich in protein and are a type of natural insect, anyone with allergies should exercise caution when consuming them.

 

The third unusual dish was deep-fried smoked pork offal. It did not look appealing, as it was black and rather unappetising, and I almost ignored it until my friend encouraged me to try some.

He told me not to judge a book by its cover, or, in this case, a dish by its appearance. It was almost impossible to find in major cities, and once we left Sơn La, our chances of trying it again would be slim to none.

The offal had a pleasant aroma of local herbs and smoke. After being deep-fried, it was wonderfully crispy, like a snack, and made an ideal accompaniment to beer.

A dish of beef salad with aubergines and herbs was also new to me. I have eaten pickled aubergines since I was a little girl, but had never tried them in a salad.

It was a seemingly spontaneous combination, with the crunchy texture of local aubergines meeting the tender, succulent beef to create a refreshing dish perfect for a warm summer's day.

This harmonious contrast between crunch and tenderness, lightness and richness, not only delights the palate but also reflects the refinement inherent in Vietnamese culinary culture. It effortlessly transforms the humblest of ingredients into a unique work of gastronomic art.

The final dish of our meal was recommended by the restaurant owner himself: mixed fried rice. He said it was special because it offered both soft and crispy grains at the same time. Meanwhile, the pork floss on top of the dish was particularly outstanding compared with that served at other nearby restaurants, as it was made from free-range pigs raised in his wife's home village in a mountainous commune.

 

The dish excelled in its individual elements, from the distinct texture of the rice grains to the choice of toppings and the well-balanced seasoning. My only criticism was the strong smell of margarine. While the chef likely intended to enrich the flavour, the margarine unfortunately overpowered the natural aromas of the other ingredients.

Leaving the restaurant completely satisfied, I realised that while Sơn La might lack traditional tourist attractions, its rich culinary scene offers a far more memorable experience. — VNS

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Vườn Bia Nguyên Xoa

Address: No 4, Lane 116, Nguyễn Văn Linh Street, Tô Hiệu Ward, Sơn La Province.

Tel: 0971 272 911

Price: from VNĐ15,000

Comment: A wide range of unusual and delicious dishes at affordable prices.