PHU THO — Pa Co kermis, held every Sunday, is more than a hub for trading goods; it is a lively meeting place for socialising and cultural exchange among the Mong people in the northern province of Phu Tho.

As the weather shifts into winter, the cold has already settled in, creating a crisp, invigorating atmosphere. Villagers from surrounding hamlets follow tradition by gathering at the market early in the morning, even while thick fog still blankets the landscape.

The variety of goods on display is remarkably rich, reflecting the unique character of the mountainous region. Most stalls feature vibrant textiles, including traditional dresses, scarves and hats made from colourful brocade.

Daily essentials are also available, such as flashlights, traditional do (poonah) paper and lighters, catering to locals’ everyday needs. Stalls selling agricultural products, including fresh vegetables, fruits, chickens and pigs, line the outskirts of the market, offering visitors a taste of the region’s produce.

The market’s simple stalls are rich in artistic expression and clearly reflect Mong culture. Constructed from bamboo and rattan, with thatched nipa palm roofs, they are decorated with traditional brocade fabrics and handcrafted ornaments by local artisans, creating a warm and rustic atmosphere.

The cuisine at the Pa Co market is an unmissable highlight, offering the rich flavours of the northwest mountains. The dishes are crafted from fresh, primarily local ingredients, combining simplicity with appeal. Visitors have the opportunity to experience traditional Mong dishes that provide a unique taste unlike anything found elsewhere.

Some must-try dishes include thang co (a traditional Mong horse meat stew), grilled meat marinated with mac khen (Sichuan pepper) leaves, five-colour sticky rice and corn cake. In addition, various beverages such as corn wine and Shan Tuyet tea are ideal choices to complete visitors’ culinary experience at the market.

On his journey to explore Pa Co, Tom Hiddleston, a visitor from England, was greatly delighted by his experience at the market.

"Coming to the market felt like a wonderful coincidence. I believe it is the most incredible destination for a trip where I can discover the cultural identity of the local ethnic communities. The bustling atmosphere, the vibrant colours of the Mong people's brocade attire and the lively interactions at the stalls all leave an unforgettable experience,” he said.

According to Phang A Pao, a tourism business operator in Cha Day Village, Pa Co kermis is one of the busiest markets for the Mong people in the northwest region. The market serves not only as a trading hub but also as an embodiment of shared life among the mountain communities. It is a vibrant point of cultural exchange, where people come together to interact and share their traditions, something that feels almost non-existent in urban life.

Local elders said the Pa Co kermis has been established and maintained for a long time. Situated in the heart of the Mong community, it reflects the daily life of the mountain people – simple and rustic yet a testament to their hard work and resilience.

In an era where many markets are affected by commercialisation, Pa Co kermis remains one of the rare places that retains its ethnic identity and the distinctive features of traditional highland markets. — VNS