From a childhood nickname to bia hơi tables in Hà Nội, one writer’s lifelong love of tofu celebrates its versatility, humble origins and enduring place in Vietnamese kitchens.
Bún xào cần (stir-fried rice vermicelli and water celery) is a simple but delicious dish with a secret to making the noodles. It was much loved by the ancient Cổ Loa people and has been made in the suburbs of Hà Nội...
